The cosmetic industry is full of serums that promise to make your skin glow.
What to Know About Vitamin C Serum for Acne
The cosmetic industry is full of serums that promise to make your skin glow.
Of the many serums available, vitamin C serum is proven. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that works to stimulate collagen production in your skin. It also fights fine lines, brightens your complexion, and provides a host of other benefits. Skincare experts also tout it as one of the best anti-aging ingredients you could ever use.
Although you get vitamin C from the foods you eat, it probably doesn’t end up in your skin. Using vitamin C serum is the easiest and most direct way to deliver the nutrient to your skin. It’s a highly effective product in the treatment of acne. This explains why most skincare products contain vitamin C.
How Does Vitamin C Serum Help with Acne?
Acne is a skin condition characterized by inflamed and blocked pores. They lead to swelling, redness, and sometimes pustules or bumps with pus in them. Acne can also leave your skin with post-inflammatory scars, which damages the skin.
No research ties dietary vitamin C with reduced acne levels but it may help with general skin health. However, there is limited research to suggest that the application of vitamin C on the skin can improve this condition.
May reduce inflammation caused by acne. Some of the risk factors for acne are genetics, age, and hormones. In some other situations, skin bacterium may trigger the condition.
Vitamin C contains anti-inflammatory properties and helps reduce the redness and swelling that comes with acne. The results are more pronounced when you use the vitamin topically. It, therefore, helps improve the appearance of acne wounds.
It may help reduce hyperpigmentation. Acne causes your skin to develop darkened spots around the affected area. This is called hyperpigmentation. Other causes are UV rays and skin injuries. Vitamin C is known to reduce hyperpigmentation by reducing the effects of the tyrosine enzyme. The enzyme is responsible for the production of melanin that gives your skin its color.
Vitamin C also functions as a brightening agent. It has properties that reduce dark spots without changing your skin color. Combining vitamin C serums with other brightening agents like iontophoresis can significantly enhance the results.
It improves the appearance of scars caused by acne. Your skin can take a while to heal after an acne breakout. If it doesn’t heal properly, it may develop acne scars. Acne scars have three categories depending on their type.
The first class is the atrophic acne scars that result in the loss of skin tissue and collagen. They present themselves as small indentations in the skin. The other classes are keloid and hypertrophic scars that both occur when there is overproduction of collagen. These appear as thick, raised scar tissue.
When you apply vitamin C serum to the affected area, it works by promoting the synthesis of collagen. This is the protein that builds your skin structure and promotes healthy skin. With increased collagen production, the healing of acne wounds is faster.
In addition to helping you deal with acne, vitamin C is also beneficial in:
- Soothing sunburns by accelerating cell turnover. This helps replace the damaged cells with healthy ones.
- Protecting you against sun damage and free radicals that cause skin cancer
- Preventing your skin from sagging by boosting collagen production
- Reducing the appearance of under-eye circles
- Hydrating your skin
Potential Side Effects of Vitamin C Serum
Most vitamin C serums are relatively safe to use. Irritation is unlikely. But it’s always ideal to do a patch test before a full application. This will show how your skin is likely to react to the serum.
If you have sensitive skin, it’s best to avoid products with L-ascorbic acid. The product can cause redness and make your skin dry out. Instead, go for those with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. They’re less likely to irritate your skin. Besides that, your best bet would be to consult with a certified dermatologist.
How to Use Vitamin C Serum?
For the best results in using vitamin C serum for acne, incorporate its application in your skincare regime. Using topical vitamin C in serum form is more effective than creams or toners. Look for products that contain L-ascorbic acid, which is the active form of the vitamin.
Pure ascorbic acid is effective in penetrating the skin barrier. When combined with antioxidants like vitamin E, the results are fast and reliable. Together, they work to protect your skin against damage from free radicals.
Show Sources
SOURCES:
Annals of Dermatology: “Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Regulates the Expression of Inflammatory Biomarkers in Cultured Sebocytes.”
Indian Dermatology Online Journal: “Vitamin C in dermatology.”
International Journal of Cosmetic Science: “Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment.”
International Journal of Cosmetic Science: “Stability of vitamin C derivatives in topical formulations containing lipoic acid, vitamins A and E.”
JAMA Network: “Use of Topical Ascorbic Acid and Its Effects on Photodamaged Skin Topography.”
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology: “Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives.”
Journal of Drugs in dermatology: “Successful short-term and long-term treatment of melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation using vitamin C with a full-face iontophoresis mask and a mandelic/malic acid skincare regimen.”
Journal of Pharmaceutical Research International: “Formulation Development and Facial Skin Evaluation of Serum Containing Jellose from Tamarind Seeds.”
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology: “Cutibacterium acnes (Propionibacterium acnes) and acne vulgaris: a brief look at the latest updates.”
Microorganisms: “Propionibacterium acnes and Acne Vulgaris: New Insights from the Integration of Population Genetic, Multi-Omic, Biochemical and Host-Microbe Studies.”
Nutrients: “The Role of Vitamin C in Skin Health.”
Scars, Burns & Healing: “A systematic review of treatments for acne scarring. Part 1: Non-energy-based techniques.”
The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology: “Hyperpigmentation Therapy: A Review,” “Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications.”
Wiley Online Library: “Anti-aging and brightening effects of a topical treatment containing vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract: A split-face, randomized controlled trial.”
Does Vitamin C Treat Acne?
Acne vulgaris, also known simply as acne, is a common skin condition that may cause pimples and oily skin. In North America, up to 50% of adolescents and 15–30% of adults experience symptoms ( 1 ).
Many people use topical creams, medications, foods, and supplements to help relieve acne. In fact, vitamin C is frequently added to many skin care products that purport to treat it.
Still, you may wonder whether vitamin C is effective for this purpose.
This article explains whether the topical application of vitamin C treats acne.
Officially known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that’s crucial for various aspects of health, including your skin. Your body doesn’t produce it, so you must obtain it through your diet ( 2 ).
This vitamin is also a potent antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals, which are unstable compounds that can damage your body’s cells over time when levels become too high in the body ( 3 , 4 ).
Your skin is affected by free radicals due to its exposure to both your internal and external environments. Among other factors, diet, stress, smoking, ultraviolet (UV) rays, and pollution all affect skin health ( 3 , 4 , 5 ).
Your skin’s epidermis — the top layer of skin that’s visible to the human eye — contains high levels of vitamin C. This nutrient plays a key role in protecting, healing, and producing new skin ( 6 ).
As acne is a highly inflammatory condition that can be exacerbated by environmental stressors, vitamin C may play a role in treating it.
summary
Vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin that acts as a potent antioxidant to protect your skin and other cells from free radical damage.
Acne is an inflammatory skin condition caused by blocked pores. It leads to redness, swelling, and sometimes pustules, which are inflamed bumps that contain pus ( 7 ).
In addition to breakouts, acne leaves many people with post-inflammatory scars and skin damage. However, research indicates that vitamin C may treat several of these conditions.
Keep in mind that while a high intake of foods rich in vitamin C may help other aspects of skin health, no research ties dietary vitamin C to reduced acne levels. Nonetheless, limited research suggests that the topical application of vitamin C may be helpful.
May reduce acne-related inflammation
Age, genetics, and hormones are risk factors for acne. Moreover, certain strains of the common skin bacterium Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) may trigger this condition ( 7 , 8 ).
Given that vitamin C is anti-inflammatory, it may help reduce redness and swelling related to acne when used topically. Thus, it may improve the appearance of acne lesions ( 9 ).
In a 12-week study in 50 people, 61% of participants who used a lotion containing 5% sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) — experienced significant improvements in acne lesions, compared with a control group ( 10 ).
In a smaller, 8-week study in 30 people, those who used 5% SAP had a 48.8% reduction in acne lesions. What’s more, those who used a combination of SAP and 2% retinol — a vitamin A derivative — had a 63.1% reduction ( 9 ).
Though these results are promising, larger high-quality studies are needed.
May improve the appearance of acne scars
After an acne breakout, your skin requires time to heal. Without proper healing, acne scars may develop.
Acne scars are usually related to severe, cystic acne, but they can result from mild cases as well. Moreover, prolonged acne, genetics, and physical manipulation like picking or squeezing can increase the likelihood of scarring ( 11 ).
The three main types of acne scars are atrophic, hypertrophic, and keloidal.
Atrophic scars cause a loss of skin tissue and collagen and appear as small indentions in the skin. Both hypertrophic and keloidal scars result from collagen overproduction and appear as thick, raised scar tissue ( 11 ).
Vitamin C treats acne scars by increasing the synthesis of collagen, a protein responsible for your skin’s structure and vital for rebuilding healthy skin. As a result, this vitamin may accelerate the healing of acne wounds ( 6 , 12 , 13 ).
A 4-week study in 30 people noted moderate improvements in acne scars after using microneedling — which involves rolling small needles over the skin to promote healing and increase collagen production — alongside a 15% vitamin C topical cream once per week ( 14 ).
Yet, it’s unknown if microneedling, vitamin C, or a combination of both was responsible for these results ( 14 ).
Moreover, vitamin C and microneedling are unsuitable for hypertrophic and keloidal scars, as these types result from collagen overproduction ( 15 ).
While no research links dietary vitamin C to reduced acne scarring, it increases your body’s natural collagen production and is still beneficial for overall skin health ( 16 , 17 ).
May reduce hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is the formation of darkened spots on your skin as a result of acne, UV rays, or other injuries — though it should be noted that this condition is harmless.
Applying vitamin C to your skin may reduce hyperpigmentation by interfering with an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin, a natural skin pigment ( 12 , 13 , 18 ).
Moreover, vitamin C acts as a brightening agent and can reduce the appearance of darkened spots without changing the natural color of your skin ( 12 , 13 , 18 ).
Some human studies that combine topical vitamin C with iontophoresis — an electrical gradient applied to the skin — found significant reductions in hyperpigmentation ( 19 , 20 ).
Though this method is promising, iontophoresis increases vitamin C absorption into your skin, meaning that topical application of vitamin C alone may not yield the same results ( 21 ).
Furthermore, most related studies use vitamin C in combination with other anti-hyperpigmentation ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids, making it hard to determine the specific effects of the vitamin. Overall, more research is needed ( 21 ).
summary
Topical vitamin C may help reduce acne scars, as well as acne-related inflammation and hyperpigmentation. Still, most research suggests that combining it with other treatments yields the best results.
Though numerous foods and supplements contain vitamin C, keep in mind that skin care products formulated with this vitamin are more likely to aid acne-related conditions.
No current studies tie dietary vitamin C to reduced acne or scarring.
Food and supplements
Many fruits and vegetables are rich in vitamin C, such as bell peppers, strawberries, tomatoes, broccoli, leafy greens, and citrus fruits ( 22 ).
Moreover, vitamin C supplements are widely available.
As such, most people in developed countries meet their vitamin C needs through diet and supplementation ( 22 ).
As vitamin C is water-soluble, your body discards any excess through your urine. Before taking a supplement, you may want to consult a healthcare professional ( 22 ).
Skin care products
Vitamin C is used in many skin care products, such as serums, moisturizers, and creams.
Though L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of this vitamin, it’s also the least stable and goes rancid very quickly in skin care products. Topical vitamin C serum boosters are popular, too, but they also have a short shelf life ( 23 , 24 ).
Therefore, more stable vitamin C derivatives are commonly utilized for topical products. However, few human studies examine how these derivatives affect acne. Plus, it’s not known whether these ingredients provide results similar to those of L-ascorbic acid ( 23 , 24 ).
Keep in mind that many vitamin C serums are made with other antioxidants like vitamin E to increase stability and provide additional benefits ( 13 ).
For best results, follow the manufacturer’s instructions and discard any expired or discolored products.
If you’re currently using any topical or oral acne medications, consult your dermatologist or healthcare professional before adding any vitamin C skin care products to your routine.
summary
Although vitamin C is widely available in foods and supplements, scientific evidence only supports the use of topical products for reducing acne symptoms.
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